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How To Fit A Bath or Bathroom Suite . You will get an idea of what you need.

Not all bathrooms are the same and we have been as general as we can. The customer purchased this suite and wanted it installed to the highest quality. Below you can see what we started with.

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As you can see we have removed some tiles from around the bath. We were replacing all of our tiles anyway, but if you plan to keep yours, you will almost certainly have to remove the bottom course to get the bath out. Old bathroom suite. New bath ready for installation. This bath was boxed in at the tap end so the boxing had to be removed. It is rarely of use to save this boxing whole as it will probably not fit back when your new bath is in position.

Save the timber if it is in reasonable condition, you may be able to adapt it to fit. When you remove the bath panel take a good note of how it was fixed in place. It will help you when you fix the new one. All surrounds were removed and the bath panel, take everything out of the bathroom when you have removed it, including tile pieces. You will have a lot of tools strewn about during this job, and bathrooms are small. Keep the job tidy. Fill the kettle up.

During the next two or three hours you are going to need a cup of tea! Now turn the water off, hot & cold. Open the taps in the kitchen to make sure the water has drained down, when it stops running downstairs open the bath & basin taps upstairs, in case air is keeping water in the pipes.

Its time to remove the bath, use a basin spanner (below). The picture below on the left is of a special pipe cutter we use, called a pipe slice. As you can see it is round and clips on the pipe, the blade is inside. You turn the slice and it cuts through as the blade is on a spring. The main advantage of the slice is that you need very little room to work.

Do not cut any pipes yet unless you have to. If it is the only way you can get the bath out, eg rusted nuts etc, then cut them as close to. Bathroom with tiles removed. Cutting feed to taps behind basin.

Earth strap. Don't forget to undo the earth tags and wires if you have to. All pipes in bathrooms have to be earthed. For more information on this see our earth bonding project. Now disconnect the waste from the bottom of the bath. The trap will be full of water so tip it down the loo or into the basin.. You may have brackets holding the bath to the wall. You will probably have found these when removing the tiles.

Unscrew them. The feet of the bath will (or should) be screwed to the floor so undo them as well. The bath is now ready to be lifted out and taken away. If you are saving any fittings from the bath e. They damage easily and taking the bath downstairs is easier with them off anyway. They have a wonderful knack of catching the wallpaper, curtains, handrail etc! Now we will turn our attention to the basin, leaving the loo in place as long as possible unless you have another downstairs! The system is the same.

Undo the tap connectors or cut the pipes as close to the taps as possible. Remove the waste fittings just leaving the inch and a quarter pipe, and unscrew any fixings from the basin to the wall. If you have a pedestal then this should be screwed to the floor also. Remove the basin etc, saving the taps if you. Now the loo. Flush it first! There will still be water in the cistern.

Remove any water left in the cistern using a sponge or some rags and wring them out into a bucket. Incidentally, a bucket, in our firm is referred to as a FAK..(Plumbers) First Aid Kit ! Undo the water inlet connection at the side or bottom of the cistern.

Undo the overflow connection. Unscrew the fixings at the back of the cistern and the W. C. If they are rusty, as they often are, use a drill to take the head off and lift the loo out. If your unit has a pipe between the cistern and the wc, you have a low level unit and the two halves can be removed seperately. If your cistern sits on top of the wc. Then the unit is close- coupled and can be removed as one. Making up the suite: If you have some help, that help can apply a bit of masking tape to the ends of the pipes and remove the rest of the ceramic tiles.

We use an old wood chisel and a claw- hammer. Be careful on plasterboard walls.

Removing old tiles. New glass sink. Before we install isolation valves to all the pipes (more about them in a moment) we need to know where to cut the pipes down to. We are going to use some special push- fit tap connectors to make life easier on this job, so we now . When unpacking your new suite from its boxes please make absolutely sure it is in pristine condition. It will be too late afterwards.

Most new suites come with instructions for make up, ie. But as a rule of thumb, with taps there is nearly always a washer between the tap and unit (basin/bath) and with wastes the washer is nearly always underneath the unit and sometimes sits into a recess in the waste connection itself. Bed all bath and basin waste grills with a little plumbers mait between the grill and the bath/basin. When your units are made up they should look like this.... Bath Taps Made Up. Basin waste made up.

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If your bath has fixing brackets that screw to the timber along the side that goes against the wall, now is the time to fix them. For the bath, you will need an inch and a half, shallow bath waste trap and for the basin, if behind a pedestal like ours, an inch and a quarter basin waste. If your existing wastes are in good condition they can be re- used but get new washers. If your existing basin waste pipe comes up directly in line with the waste outlet in your basin, you will need a bottle or pedestal waste, who's outlet is directly below the inlet. You will see that we have connected the waste to the basin already. That is because it will be behind a pedestal and very difficult to manoeuvre later. The tap connectors you can see are simply a marvellous invention.

You will not often see a plumber using them as they are expensive compared to copper tap connectors. But for the purposes of this project they are wonderful. They have a nut on one end which, with a washer inside, screws on to your tap, and the other end simply pushes over the copper inlet pipe. You will need 1. 5mm push fit tap connectors for cold connections and 2. Make sure you use some jointing compound on all threads. Boss white is the most common, used either on its own or in conjunction with some PTFE tape, which is simply wound around the thread making a completely watertight joint.

The joint compound is applied with your fingers and pushed into the threads. Toilet cistern including all parts.

Contemporary bath taps. Making up the cistern is a process of following the manufactures leaflet which will be with the bits inside. You can always refer to your old cistern if you are confused. Make up the close coupled unit as well and stand it up against a wall out of the way for now. If your new cistern has a side entry inlet for the water, a flexible tap connector will not be suitable. You will need to use copper. See our section on joining copper pipes.

Now we will install isolation valves to each water supply. These enable you to turn of the supplies individually and are invaluable if you have any kind of leak or want to replace taps etc. They look like this. Firstly look for the arrow on them which tells you the flow direction. Cut a piece of copper pipe 2 and a half inches long and fit it into the out going side of the valve, apply your joint compound and ptfe and tighten.

Copper tap connectors. These fittings come fully fitted with the nut on the pipe. Just insert a fibre washer and tighten to the tap. Isolation valve. Isolation Valves. Absolutely vital (and now a requirement from building regulations, in new bathrooms) to isolate each appliance and make life very easy indeed. Do not over- tighten these (compression) fittings and always remember to use two spanners when working on them in all situations.

HOW TO FIT AN OUTSIDE TAP - Plumbing Tips. From siting the tap and drilling the hole through your wall to piping it up using copper pipe and installing valves and non return valves. Hello and welcome to today plumberparts. This video is gonna be all about how to fit an outside tap. There's a couple of ways you can do it.

Two types of kits, there's also a kit you can get where everything comes in one massive piece. You have the hose, you have a check valve with all those bits and bobs on it. We're not gonna do it like that, we're gonna do it properly with hard pipe. We're gonna use some soldering, it's gonna be bloody great. Remember to hold tight.

Once you've chosen the position for your outside tap, we're gonna try and get it about here, directly under this middle spine of this window. Now it's always easier if you can try and put your tap underneath the kitchen sink outside because you've got your cold feed out there already. A couple of things you need to think about is you probably don't wanna be feeding the outside with softened water supply because you'll be paying for softened water to go outside into your grass. And also when buying the tap, if your tap you buy doesn't have a built in check valve, that's a non- return valve, you have to buy a non- return valve separately because you cannot have the possibility of water going back into the main from any outside tap. I've chosen where I'm gonna put it.

I am not gonna punch a hole through the wall and we're actually gonna feed the tap through and affix to the wall and then I'll show you how to do the connexions out from the other side. Right, so the particular outside tap pack we've got today is one like this. So you can just push it straight into the wall. Obviously a lot of the time you have big tap that have an angled upward inch and a half female plate that you actually screw into the wall. Then you have to screw it in. So that means sometimes you have a bit of 1. But these are slightly simpler, a bit easier to do.

So it's a matter of pushing it into the hole now, marking our three holes, drilling them and getting them plugged. Little tip, before you do that, just pop some tape over getting inside your pipe. Drill and plug. I've almost got our plugs in. Just grab yourself a little bit of silicon, pop that in here around this so then if you do get any rain or anything like that, it doesn't get into your home, get all over the place.

Popped in beautiful like that. That will stop any water getting in. Right now tighten up your three screws nice and tight. Once this is all in nicely done up and you've smoothed off the silicon around the bottom, or around wherever it may have spread out, don't use the PTFE they supply with the tap okay 'cause it's poo.

You wanna use Loc. Tite, this stuff's really good because you need this tap to stay upright and stable and Lock Tight not only seals the joint, but actually creates a really tough, hard to move joint as well once it's in. So how you put that on, you just wrap it and you actually cross it over the threads like so. So you actually sort of go over the thread like that.

Then that gets that in. I just wanna run that nice into there. Apprentices always put too much on when they start using this stuff. Then we just run it in, just start off hand tight like that.

It's already gotten tight now. So what you wanna do is get yourself, I don't really get that out with the hands. I got a lot of time for that.

So we're done outside, no we've got our tap in, make sure that you turn it off. And now we're gonna go inside and I'll show you how to do your connexions up in there. Right now, so here we are under the sink. There's out pipe sticking out as I'm sure you'd a guessed. Right, what we're gonna do it I'll put a little elbow on here. Our cold water is this pipe just down at the bottom here.

So just T, we just elbow and T into that cold pipe nice and easy. But along the way, going up we need a valve that turns off the outside and also our check valve or non- return valve.

We'll put them in like that on the way out. If you wanna learn more about check valves or anything like that, we do have video on it.

I'll leave a link to it at the end of this video. I'm just gonna cut very small piece, put that into there with that arrow pointing up. Pop that piece into there with that arrow pointing up, then this arrow going in the same direction. Pop that in there and then we're gonna tighten these two up.

So we've got our piece like that and that will go in just in here like so.