Crown Molding Frequently Asked Questions. After reviewing all of these questions, if you still need help, please email. The 7. The absolute best set of tools is the Contractor Value Pack which includes the 7. When drywall is installed, a metal cap is placed on all outside corners. Now look at the straight edge and the wall about 6 to 8 .

Use the longest tool that will fit the corner. Can I use the Miter Excel Program if I do not have Excel 9. PC format only)? Yes. There is a free download called . To get more information or the download go to .

Working by yourself is usually harder with crown molding. All of the nail holes will be filled in when you caulk the bottom of the crown. This is an inside to outside corner piece that is exactly 4.

These are not reliable for wall that are not at or close to 9. We do not recommend them. Which of these numbers is the crown spring angle?

The crown spring angle is measured as shown on page 3. There are three crown slope angles, one for each direction that you can make a turn with your crown molding, horizontal, vertical or ceiling turns (ceiling turns are used for outside wall corners in a room with a sloped ceiling. Knowing your crown spring angle you can determine the crown slope angle depending on how you want to make the turn (horizontal, vertical or ceiling turns).

1. Series 100 "Outside Corners" Series 200 "Edge Trims" Series 300 "Trim Reveals" Series 400 "Wall Trim Reveals" Series 500 "Wall Reveals" Series 600 "Inside Corners".
2. Simplify trim work on 3/4 rounded drywall corners with this clever jig. It helps layout perfect lines for tight-fitting three-piece corners.

Bullnose Corner Bead & Archway. Softens corners & adds a traditional or southwestern look. Trim-Tex offers the most complete line of ¾" Bullnose products in. Which size True Angle® tool do I need to install crown molding? The 7" & 18" True Angle® tool is the minimum recommended for crown molding and trim.

Trim-Tex is the premier manufacturer of vinyl drywall beads & accessories. We coined the term “Drywall Art” and serve as a Design & Training Center.

How do I install crown molding on a sloped ceiling &. Why do I need the small wedge shaped piece of crown molding? When you are installing crown molding in a horizontal direction and approach a corner where the crown must make an upward turn to follow the sloped ceiling, you actually have to make two turns in the corner. For a 2. 0- degree sloped ceiling, the corner angle for the vertical turn would be 1. The top of the wedge piece that rests against the ceiling will be cut to a point as shown in the picture to the left and both ends of the wedge piece will be cut using the same saw setting as the mating piece of crown molding is cut (see page 4. The small wedge piece is a result of making two turns, horizontal and vertical, in the same corner.

Turns made in the plane of the ceiling do not require a wedge piece, however each time you make a turn in the plane of the ceiling you change the installed spring angle of your crown molding by the amount the ceiling slopes. The change in spring angle can be +/- . For example (see 2nd photo to the left), if you are installing 3. Our book also covers conditions when you should or should not turn the crown in the plane of the ceiling (see pages 4. You should only turn your crown molding in the plane of the ceiling when having to deal with and outside wall corner in a room with a sloped ceiling.

Remember:   When installing crown, always measure your crown spring angle using your 7. TIP: It is very helpful to glue the small wedge piece to the horizontal crown and then use the wedge piece to measure the length of the adjacent crown molding going up the slope. To glue the joints, use fast setting glue (i.

It is much safer cutting small pieces of crown molding laying flat instead of propped up. Input these into the Miter Program or use the Crown Molding Table in the book. Use your crown molding templates to determine the correct setup for your saw. Please be very careful while cutting small pieces of crown molding. You are working very close to the blade. It is best to cut your crown laying flat. Return to top. Why is the Compound Miter Excel Program Password protected?

We have password protection on all of the pages of the program. The password is <  sos  >.

Return to top. Why am I having trouble downloading the excel program? If you have followed the instructions very carefully from our download page and are unable to download the program, then you may have your internet security settings set too high. This can happen when the AOL internet security is set too high . Select the Preferences keyword, then the Security tab, and then select Medium or Low. For more information or to get the free download. There is also a download for a Mac computer available.

Return to top. Can I run the Excel program on my MAC computer? The Miter Excel Program was written on a PC using Microsoft Excel 9.

For more information or to get the free download go to . Please note that coping will only work for corners that are inside corners (usually 9. Now that you have the crown slope angle and the corner angle you can obtain the correct saw settings from the tables in the book. What if your bullnose corner is not a 2.

The table on page 5. See page 5. 6. First, determine the radius of your bullnose corner (page 5. Due to the small sizes, you will not be able to use nails.

Please be careful while cutting the small wedge transition piece. It is safer to cut small pieces of crown laying flat not propped up. In the 2nd photo on page 4. In this case (2nd photo page 4.

B was a bullnose outside corner you would cut the crown with a crown slope angle of 3. You can also use the Miter Program. What if I have baseboards/trim that I want to install around a bullnose corner? You will use the bullnose chapter for trim very much like crown molding. If you want one trim piece then look at table 1 page 5. You will now use table 2 on page 5. Return to top. What size nail do I need to install crown molding and should I use a nail gun?

All of this and much more information can be found in my book. Smaller Crown Molding (3. An 8d finishing nail (2. If you are installing the crown over drywall then use a 1. The nail should be located about midway up the crown and should be about every 3. You should nail the crown into the top ceil plate located inside the top of the wall. The magnetic type are useless.

Larger Crown Molding (4. It is also recommended using two nails at each location and spaced about 3 to 4 feet apart.

The nails should be located about 3. If you do not have anything to nail into at these locations then you will need to cut a nailing block and attach it in the corner first. It is not necessary to have the nailing block continuous. It can be cut in short lengths and then firmly attached in the corner using larger nails or screws. Cut the nailing block so that you have at lease 1/4. Do I need a Nail Gun. No. You do not need one.

The high cost of a good quality trim gun is usually more that the average home owner needs to invest in installing their own crown molding. However, if you have access to one, it will make installing all of your molding a little easier. We personally love nail/trim guns. You should follow the general guidelines above for the length of nail/brad required. Return to top. What is the best way to make a lap joint?

In other words, cut both sides of the joint without moving the saw adjustments. The first thing to do is to measure the corner angle using the True Angle. You should always use your set of crown molding templates to check the saw setup before you cut. More examples. To be able to measure all the corners of your house, you will need the True Angle tool. The best tool set is our Contractor Value Pack.

Use the longer tools for the long corners and the shorter tools for corners that the larger tools will not fit. For cutting on a miter saw, be sure to hold the crown in the position that it will be installed. This will require switching the crown end to end for some cuts. Plan your cuts so the top of the crown is next to the fence for the last cut.

This will allow you to see the wall length mark on the bottom of the crown easier. How does this help? The bottom of the crown is where you will place you wall length measurement and it will be a little easier to see the mark when cutting the crown.

Either type saw will allow you to cut your crown properly. A dual bevel saw is a little more convenient but usually cost more $$.

The choice is yours. What size do I need? Return to top. There are gaps in my crown molding (molding) joint. What did I do wrong? If your crown molding has any gaps, then the crown was not cut correctly.

How to Sand Drywall. Prepare for Dust- Lots of It! Drywall sanding is one of the worst jobs in construction.

It’s not only dirty and grueling, but also stressful because now you have to fix any earlier mistakes. Good sanding results are built on the foundation of good taping, and the final sanding is your last chance to get the whole job right. The paint job will reveal the truth: Either you succeeded—all the fasteners and seams look uniformly invisible—or any taping and sanding flaws are now glaringly apparent forevermore. No wonder so many homeowners choose to hire out drywall work. Take heart: If you’re patient and pay attention to detail, you can tackle this job! We’ll show you the sanding steps and finishing techniques the pros use to get sanding done quickly with excellent results.

Drywall dust is fine, like flour, and will travel to other areas of the house. To prepare your house for the work ahead and reduce this dust, follow these steps: Lay dropcloths. Use plastic sheeting and masking tape to seal off cold- air return ducts and doorways. Mount box fans in windows (exhausting out) to ventilate the room.

Remove the screens from your windows and doors before starting work to avoid having to clean drywall dust from them afterward. Get the proper safety equipment: a two- strap dust mask (changed every half hour if you’re working in under- ventilated areas) or a respirator—both types rated for drywall work—plus a hat, glasses (goggles fog up) and comfortable clothing. Microsoft Office Word 2007 Indir Tamindir. Don’t forget the psychological aspect of drywall sanding: The work goes much quicker and easier if you recruit a helper and turn on your favorite music! Time Saving Tip: Capture dust at the source.

If you have ever sanded drywall, you know what a mess drywall dust can be! For way less than you’d think, you can practically eliminate the problem with a dustless drywall sanding attachment for your shop vacuum. This one from Hyde Tools (No. Go to hydetools. com for more information and buying advice. Drywall sanding attachment (No. Map” Walls and Ceilings First. Photo 1: Map the wide seams“Map” all wide seam work on ceilings and walls to plan how much to sand each seam.

With a backlight positioned on one side of a wall or ceiling, place your taping blade across the end of a seam, slide the blade along the seam, then, every 4 ft., label the spots “high,” “fill” or “even.”Before sanding, round up a “shadow light” (Photo 1), a wide taping blade and a pencil (not a felt tip pen; it bleeds through paint). Using these tools, survey (“map”) the flat seams and outside corners throughout the room. I use the following labeling codes: High. If lighting reveals a high spot in the middle of the seam, sand the high spot down so the seam is uniform and even. Avoid sanding off so much joint compound that you expose and scuff the underlying drywall tape. If that happens, use a wide blade and more mud to build out the seam from the high spot to both outside edges, let the mud dry, map the seam again and then sand it.

Fill. If light shows only at the middle of the blade, the seam needs more “mud” fill. Recoat with more mud and let it dry before you sand it. Use an “easy- sand” joint compound, which is available at home centers and hardware stores in 2. Add the mud, let it dry, then sand the seam; you can usually do it the same day. If light is uniformly blocked along the length of the blade, sand the seam minimally and evenly.

Two Tools Handle the Bulk of the Sanding Work. Photo 2: Apply even pressure. Apply an even- pressure, push- pull motion to work a hand sander inside the flat seams and along the narrow vertical nail/screw patterns called “strips.” Work the edges of the seams or strips with this push- pull stroke or use a circular, buffing motion to “feather out,” or smooth, the transition edge between the seam and the bare drywall. Note: We used water- resistant drywall because its green color provides more visual contrast between the drywall, the taped seams and the strips. Don’t use water- resistant drywall on ceilings (it sags).

Also, check with a building inspector; many areas do not permit its use on exterior house walls. Photo 3: Using a pole sander. Use a push- pull stroke with a pole sander. Your arms may turn to rubber, but using a pole sander is faster and easier than working a hand sander from a ladder.

Turn the head of the pole sander wider to work across seams or narrower to sand along fastener strips. Carefully sand the transition edge between the taped seams/strips and the bare drywall to avoid scuffing the drywall’s paper face. Photo 4: Three common problems. Be aware of three common problems as you sand: Hide a protruding screw (or nail) by first setting the fastener properly below the drywall’s surface and then applying two coats of easy- sand mud. Knock off a ridge of dried joint compound on a seam with a small taping blade and smooth the surface with one thin coat of easy- sand mud. If you have a thick buildup on a transition edge, avoid heavy sanding because you’ll likely scuff the adjacent bare drywall. Instead, use a 6- in.

For 8. 0 percent of your work, you’ll use a hand sander on the lower walls (Photo 2) and a pole sander on both the high portions of walls and all ceilings (Photo 3). NOTE: All the drywall tools discussed here are available at home centers and most hardware chains. Set up work lights so they shine across the seams to highlight flaws in the taping work. Spend the time now to perfect your sanding; it’ll pay dividends once you paint and must live with the results. Use an even- pressure, push- pull motion to work the hand sander. To smooth out shallow scratches in a seam or screw/nail pattern (called a “fastener strip”), use light pressure on the hand sander and move it in a circular buffing motion.

Pole sanders are more difficult to control; use either the push- pull motion or a side- to- side sweeping motion. Twist the handle to control a ball joint on the sanding head that will shift the movement of the head and allow the sander to both switch directions and turn around the inside corners where seams meet. Avoid scuffing or chafing the paper surface of the drywall—those flaws may be visible after painting. The edges of all seams and fastener strips should look soft and smooth after they’re sanded. Confine hand and pole sanders to the “field” of a wall or ceiling. If you work too close to inside corners, these tools may slam into adjacent walls, denting or gouging the finish.

The pole sander, with its ball joint in the sander head, is prone to flip over (“jackknife”) and cause damage. Both tools accept disposable, custom- sized sanding screens (which come in one choice of surface coarseness, or “grit”) or sheets of sandpaper (various grits). Use these tools to quickly grind down high spots or smooth the even spots on all flat seams, outside corners and fastener strips.

Some pros use “open mesh” sanding screens, but most do- it- yourselfers should avoid them. The open mesh allows the drywall dust generated during sanding to pass through and off the sander. However, screens are prone to leave scratches on the finished surface and wear out faster than sandpaper.

Most workers get the best results from 1. The pores of drywall sandpaper may appear to be clogging during use, but drywall dust actually becomes an additional abrasive to both grind and polish the taped surface, yielding a smoother finish and extending the life of the sandpaper. However, for easier and speedier sanding, you’ll still need to change sandpaper sheets frequently (an average- size bedroom will take three or four sheets of sandpaper). Use the tips in Photo 4 to solve them. Final Sanding Work and Preparation for Painting.

Photo 5: Sand with a light touch. Control sandpaper with an easy, light touch to avoid scuffing and gouging the surface finish. If your sanding does uncover and then scuff joint tape, apply more mud, feather it out, let the mud dry and carefully sand again. Photo 6: Using a sanding sponge.