DIY: LS3 Camshaft Install (a lot of pictures, may take a moment to load) - Camaro. Lm C Oh My Juliet Download Free. Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums. I decided to do my camshaft install in my garage at home and figured it would be a good opportunity to document it as thoroughly as possible so others wondering about doing the same could do so. Start by getting the car up off the floor onto jack- stands, ramps, or a lift if available and then disconnect the negative battery cable in the trunk with a 1.

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I know)2. Open up the radiator to help it breath while draining the coolant out of the system (did I really have to put this, probably not but I make no assumptions about who is reading this)3. Place something to catch the coolant under the radiator drain plug at the bottom of the driver's side of the radiator. Unplug the MAF sensor, disconnect the PCV hose from the intake pipe, and remove the intake tube from the throttle body. Once all the stuff on top of the radiator is disconnected, tilt it forward and unbolt the two bolts that hold the A/C condenser to the radiator as there is no need to take the condenser out as there is enough play in its lines to prop it up out of the way when swapping the cam out and in.

At the bottom of the radiator on the engine side, disconnect the two transmission cooling lines by removing the black plastic cover on the radiator end of the line and popping off the small clip holding the line in with any small pick- like tool (I think I used the smallest allen key I had lying around) and then pulling the lines out of the radiator as well as their holding brackets so they swing freely. These are what the two clips look like (if you haven't gotten them out yet to see them yourself). Unbolt the four A/C line brackets with a 1. If you haven't done so already, and this is the first I am mentioning it, you may want to remove the spark plugs as cranking the engine with them in is a bit of a pain as you'll be fighting each cylinder as it compresses the air inside it when you are cranking it over. Removing the spark plugs wires is a good idea as well to get them out of the way now too. To get the A/C belt off, with the car in neutral (remember this is an LS3 install), crank the engine over counter- clockwise with a 2.

A/C compressor pulley. In preparation for taking the front timing cover off a few steps from now, loosen the nut on the alternator as shown below as well as remove the two bolts, all are 1. With the crank bolt out and hopefully nothing broken, get out your harmonic balancer puller tool (I used the OEM/Chrysler one that Auto. Zone loans out). This particular puller has a couple of rods of different lengths that are supposed to extend into the crank snout but even the longer of the two was too short for the LS3.

Instead I put the stock crank bolt back in but did not thread it in all the way and then used the puller tool with just its threaded bolt pushing against the crank bolt to get the balance as far off as I could. With the harmonic balancer off, it is time to take the front timing cover off. I later realized you don't have to take the bracket off and really just need to unplug the sensor at the bottom. The negative battery cable runs under the front edge of the oil pan and sits in a kind of tray, this tray has to be disconnected from the oil pan and the block to drop it out of the way and make room for the oil pan to be dropped in a later step. In preparation to remove the oil pump, remove its four bolts with a 1. I shoulda bought stock in whoever makes them for GM )2. At this point you can drop the oil pan by loosening all of its bolts and get about a 1/2.

Before tearing things down anymore, take the car out of gear and rotate the crank over by putting the old crank bolt back in and turning it over with a ratchet until the crankshaft timing gear dot is at the 1. Using a 2. 4mm socket, remove the stock single cam bolt and then squeeze the timing chain against the outside metal bracket of the timing chain tensioner so that you can fit any small paperclip- like thing in the tensioner's retainer hole (I used the smallest allen key I had lying around) as this will relieve the tension on the chain allowing the timing gear to be removed. Remove the two 1. LIGHTLY pry the gear off leveraging against the block but be sure to put a rag against the block as it is aluminum and can easily be scored if you pry too hard.

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Either way, I strongly suggest you read up on the tensioner vs block subject and decide for yourself which way to go. With the timing gear out of the way, remove the camshaft retainer plate by unbolting the four recessed bolts with a 4.

Torx bit and keeping a hand on the retainer plate when the last bolt comes out as it may fall. Now it is time to move up top to start working into the valvetrain before we can actually remove the stock cam. Before disconnecting the fuel line it is a good idea to open the gas cap to relieve any pressure in the system (not sure if this actually makes a difference but it sounds good ), then, using a 3/8. Unbolt the fuel line retainer bracket from the passenger side of the intake manifold with a 1.

Hang the fuel line up out of the way once it is disconnected from the driver side, there is no need to disconnect the passenger side. On the driver side of the engine, disconnect the main coil plug and unbolt the five coil harness bolts with a 1. Remove/loosen the four 8mm valve cover bolts and remove the valve cover. On the passenger side next to the throttle body, disconnect the fuel breather tube (I think that is what it is) and the plug next to it (no idea what it is) as well as the two clips on the breather tube and then hang the tube up out of the way the same way the fuel line was earlier. Disconnect the passenger side main coil plug, pop off the two wire bundle holders up off the coil harness bolts, unbolt the five coil harness bolts with a 1. Remove all the passenger side rockers with an 8mm socket, the rocker pedestal bracket/seat, and all the pushrods. Thread the stock camshaft bolt about halfway back into the camshaft, rotate the camshaft by hand several times to get the lifters up and then insert your two 2.

With the A/C line brackets unbolted from an earlier step, there is enough slack in the lines to work the condenser passenger side up out of the engine bay and then laying it on top of the throttle body (protecting the throttle body with a few rags before doing so). Finish working the stock camshaft out of the block making sure to fully support it all the way out and trying not to drag it out, rotating it by hand a few times if it seems to get stuck.

When the camshaft is completely in, rotate it by hand several times to ensure it spins somewhat freely, remove the 5/1. Clean off the back side of the camshaft retainer plate and then lightly oil the built- in gasket as well as the surface that sits flush against the camshaft face.

Reinstall the retainer plate by putting some blue Loctite on its four bolts and then torque them down to 1. Torx bit. After having dipped the new timing chain in oil drape it over the new 3- bolt timing gear, apply a little oil to the face of the camshaft, rotate the camshaft so that the pin on its face that inserts into the timing gear is at the 3 o'clock position, set the timing chain up under the crankshaft onto its timing gear in such a way that the camshaft timing gear timing mark is at the 6 o'clock position (crankshaft timing mark should still be at 1. This is also a good time to button up the oil pan, all the 1.

Regardless what someone tells you your pushrod length . The methods I used for checking pushrod length were to find the pushrod length with a rocker torqued down and at zero lash then adding my targeted lifter preload to the length checker and verifying its length by bolting the rocker just down to zero lash and then getting 1. Some things are better explained by watching them so here is a video of the entire process I went through to measure and then verify the pushrod length I was going to use.

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